As the days begin to shorten, the air grows cooler, and fall leaves begin to litter our footpaths and bridleways, a gentleman knows that the season for more formal attire is drawing near. Cooler weather allows for waistcoats and watch fobs. The opera season invites dinner jackets and black ties in the evening. And most excitingly, the tweed of a sport jacket becomes a necessary protection from the elements we encounter in the field.
It is terribly imprecise to simply say sport jacket, however, as the term is as general as saying automobile. Certainly one wouldn’t take his Austin-Healey to the stables, nor would he drive his Land-Rover to a symphony. A gentleman should be familiar with the the many forms and purposes of sport jackets so that he may select the appropriate one for his sporting engagement. This is not only an issue of style, but one of function. I will share with you some of the details and differences between three types: hacking, Norfolk, and shooting.
Hacking Jacket
The most prominent style of sport jacket is the hacking jacket. This jacket is commonly worn for equestrian events of various types, such as horse shows, fox hunting, and pony club. Originally this jacket was meant to be an informal knock-about type jacket for informal “hacks,” a term synonymous with trail ride. These days, hacking jackets have a somewhat formal reputation about them, though it is still designed for the business of riding. This fact is demonstrated by its distinctive features:
- Slanted waist pockets provide security to their contents, ensuring that personal belongings do not fall to the ground while the equestrian is leaning forward in two-point (horseback riding) position.
- A single or double vent (flaps) in the rear allows for comfortable seating while astride one’s mount. In the most handsome versions, a third “ticket pocket” is included just above the right hand waist pocket, the origins and exact purpose for which are a little unclear.
- Finally, at the top of the lapel is a throat latch — an extra button and hole — so that, on a particularly fresh day, one can button out a chilly breeze.
These ladies prove the hacking jacket is just as smart on the feminine figure.
Sean Connery needn’t be mounted to look dapper in his three-pocket jacket.
Norfolk Jacket
The Norfolk jacket is a style that will forever be associated with the nineteen-teens and twenties. It can be most easily identified by its heavier fabric, box pleats, and waist-belt. The cut and shape of the jacket tends to be a looser fit with broad shoulders to allow freedom of movement. Both warm and durable, the Norfolk is a versatile option that is appropriate for birding, skiing, or even mountain climbing.
Sean Connery demonstrates the versatility of the jacket in ‘The Untouchables.’
Shooting Jacket
The shooting jacket is the least versatile of the sport jackets, but possibly the most practical for its sport. When shooting skeet or trap, a gentleman might find his shoulder bruised or unduly worked by the butt of his shotgun. To mitigate this unfortunate occurrence, the gentleman’s shooting jacket is outfitted with a special padded shoulder that is made of a suede or nubuck material. Generally, the oversized pockets have an overlapping, scalloped flap that buttons so contents — shotgun shells maybe — do not fall out.
The early version depicted here is a classic example.
Finding Your Jacket
Curating a wardrobe of fine tweed should not be a matter of wealth. One need not spend lavishly to dress lavishly. In fact, I rather delight in finding my attire on the cheap…
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For further reading, I recommend a book that is full of very tweedy characters, but is often overlooked because of its film adaptation: Walsh, Maurice, The Quiet Man and Other Stories
Gentleman Afield 